May 14/May 15
Absolutly Free 5.9
hawKmans escape 5.9
Hawkamns is a pile of loose rock waiting to kill someone. But if you have to do
it make sure you descend to the left off of the top of lower brother.
Doing about 8 raps from tree to tree. Michaels ledge descent is no longer there.
May 8/May 9
jam crack 5.9, mungenella 5.6 simul climb past 3 parties, Nutcracker with no line.
black is brown 5.8.
April 30/may 1st
Commitment, segenela, bummer, lazy bum
Sunday rain.
September 29th, 30th
Norman, Brian, Kaylea
South Crak on Stately Pleasure Dome
Table of Contents - I hate slabs.
Sunday - Clarks canyon, Epigliottis, well hung, new route 10d/11a
bucket brigade 1-fall at top - go left.
August 22
Big chief
10a clean, 11a-1 fall(lead) 11c -2 hangs(2nd), 11b 3 hangs(lead), 11a clean
Aug 15/16
Golden Gate wall 3 falls.
Sunday:
Golden gate wall 4 falls
August 8th/9th
Fairview regular Route, hot srping in bishop
with partner from Austraila(Chris Turner).
Clarks Canyon, climbed in area 8, and the boulders
10c,10c,5.8.10b,11a
August 1st/2nd
House work
July 24- Monday 27th
Maple Canyon utah
redeption of madoona, the big kahounha,
cobble stone, cockamanie(missing first hanger)
penal atrphy, an 80/20 ration, choose your weapon.
blondes in hankslville,
Saturday, Canyon hike in lower white canyon- almost dies due to foam.
Exit is farther then you think.
Climbing at stone garden.
July 2-5th
Mt raniier got to 9K feet on the liberty ridge route.
tunred back - to late in year to get on ridge.
June sometime
May 16th
April 25th 1998
March 1998
Hueco tanks on the 4th-9th.
Great boudering, Scored a V4, and more info to come.
Febuary 1998
Trip to Tuson, including MT lemmon highway, Cochise stronghold,
Queen creek.
January 1998
November-December 1997
October 10-12th
October 4-5th
August 23-24st
August 16-17st
Aug 2-3rd
June 15th- July 17th
June 7th,
May 10th, 11th
May 1st to 5th
April 26/27th
April 18th- April 20th.
April 12 - April 13th
April 5th/6th
March 30th
March 22nd,23rd
Feburary 22nd and 23rd
Feburary 15th/16th
Feburary 8th & 9th
December 14th, 15th
December 7th
November 30th
Pinnacles. new route on men at work boulder 10a, men at work,
then off to the back door, evan tries 10c to the right of black dagger.
I try to work black dagger, but get stabed many times by a tree with
large pointed branches. off to sunwheel, Evan lets me finish the lead,
clipping the last two bolts on the 11a.
October 20-November 23rd
Various bouldering and valley trips with jeff and norman.
One memorable trip, was a tag team effort to climb Chingando(10a). Can
10a get any harder? Great offwith, with a nice entry crack. Need more
large gear for this one. A 8-10" cam would be nice. lead to 2nd crux,
and backed off. Then lead through all cruxs, but bailed at base of
large chimney. Norman goes up to push route another 10 feet. Then
We get smart and set up TR, from iota. Jeff cleans route of gear as
the rain comes down. I want to stay and wait out the storm. Boys want
food in jamestown and We bail, and the chain required sign goes up.
October 12,13
Finally make it to Castleton Tower. Rebecca, Pat, and Jane joined me on a trip to the tower. Fly in
Friday night to Salt lake, Drive all night, sleep a little , get up real
early and climb the tower. Great chimney, offwidth route. Crux was
not easy. Last pitch offers some exciting stemming. Top of tower has
bivy spots. Spent Sunday Mountian biking in Canyons.
September 30th
Bouldering at Indian Joe caves. Sunol Ca. Where is Joe the sandbag cruz?
Ok bouldering with bad landings. Hard Basalt.
September 21st and 22nd
A trip on the lost Arrow tip. Only 2 more 50 Classics to go in California.
Very long walk from Tioga road, climb in the light, and jugg off in the
Dark. Long walk back to the car. Long Day. Rebecca, Doug, Dave and I did
all the walking. Chris and >...
August 28th to September 2nd
4th trip up El cap. Salathe route on the captain. Yippie.
Great route.
August 24th and 25th
Sailing from Santa cruz to San francisco
August 17th and 18th
Climbing in the valley working on a new route on the arches area.
Tried to get on the pulpit, took off clothes, waded river, make it
to base of route. Partners bail on crossing river. Off to generator
crack for a run up the climb. Yeah. Then off to a 10d conductor crack.
August 3rd and 4th
Climbing in the valley working on a new route on the arches area.
July 27th/28th
Biking and bouldering.
July 20th/21st
Climbed Mount Shasta. usual route avalanche Gulch. 4 hours to
lake helen, 3 hours 45 minutes to the top from here. Fun hike,
great glissade. Great weather.
July 13th/14th
July 4th Weekend The Walk out was long and the boys were tired. I felt like I was on speed
and ran for part of the trail. off to Bishop for checking out the town
and the mountain shop, meeting up with friends.
Day 3. Wake up partners at Deadmans summit, lets do Mt. Conness. Partners
are sagging, and won't move. End up bouldering for the day. Going to
the smoke on the way home for food and mountian biking on sunday.
June 1st/2nd
May 17th/18th
May 4th and 5th Valley Trip
April 20th and 21st
March 30th - April 2nd
March 16th and 17th
march 09 and 10th.
march 02 and 03rd.
Feb 24 and 25th.
Feb 17th and 18th.
Feb 10th and 11th.
Feb 3rd and 4th.
December 23rd to Jan 10th
December 17th and 18th
Surf was up and I went surfing. On sunday the 18th I was supposed to
do some scary mountain climbing, but we wussed out and went to
the gym.
December 9th to the 10th
Rest, after a big demo. Cycling, climbing in the gym and tried to
surf. But the surf was dead on Sunday. Waiting for the big set to come
in.
December 2nd to the 3rd
Work for a small company sometines ya got to work long hours. Work Work
Work Work Work, eat Work.
November 23rd to the 27th
Work for a small company sometimes ya got to work long hours. I spent the holidays working. Did the bouldering thing on Saturday, at mission cliffs with Joe "Send it" Cruz . On Sunday I went Surfing in Santa Cruz with my buddy John Danelson. Got
the pleasure of feeling like clothes in a washing machine while trying to get out at the hook.
November 18th and 19th
Since all the National parks were closed, Pat M., Jeff baxter and I
made our way to Mt. Diablo for some fine sandstone climbing on]
Saturday. We all got pumped on the 10c crack to face. Then we all
played who can get the highest on a new bolted face to the left
of the crack. We all made it to the first bolt plus a few feet. Then
pat lead amazing face, with jeff following apline style with pack on.
I bouldered the 11+ start to the far right route, with an old friend
from Santa Cruz (Peter). All had a good time but we had to leave early
since the great white people mover had sprung a water leak.
On Sunday I joined fellow workers and friends from Construct.com
skydiving in Davis. We all had a great time. I just wish the jump
lasted longer. Yippie.
November 11th and 12th
Dreams of wide cracks, as I look out on the ocean for waves that don't appear.
Surf was down. So cycling was in. With the national Parks, possiblely closed,
have to climb someplace else.
November 4th and 5th
Valley Trip with Jeff Baxter and Norman Boles.
Routes climbed were Stone Groove, unamed 5.9 to the right. On Sunday we
climbed Positivley 4th Street, Knob job, and bouldering at the base
of generator crack.
Just Another Valley Weekend
The long drive to Jtree was put off until a later date. Missed
the Internet climbing Party. Anyone go?
I went to the valley and climbed with Jen Handley on Saturday doing
commitment and Peruvian Flake. On Sunday I climbed with Michael from Norway,
and Jen Hanley, doing Moby Dick, Pine Line and an attempt on Litte John
left side in the rain.
Moby Dick center was lots of fun, wide. Wear a long sleeve
shirt or tape elbows. Gear to have is two or three #3 camalots, and two
number #4 camalots, plus the rest of your rack.
It's not lonely at the Top, just in between.
Jeff baxter, Norman Boles and I climbed the Dana Couloir, as a
3 man team on October 21st. The conditions were perfect and we were able
to move very fast completing the climb in one hour and forty minutes.
After enjoying a brief rest, we made our way to the top of Mt
Dana. Norman, "Wheez Wheez" hit the peak in an hour. Jeff and I were on
the walk 20 steps on ridged snow, rest a few minutes, walk 10 steps, rest
again, before going on. Jeff made it to the top about 40 minutes after
Norman and I soon followed 10 minutes later. Jeff and I both felt like
heck. And the only way I was going to feel better was to get lower. I screamed out my favorite thing to say at altitude, " The lower
you get the better you feel". To which Norman and Jeff responded "descend,
descend, descend".
We were off, after climbing the last 10 feet to the summit. Down
the easy trial until we hit a snow field. Normal choose a spot to
cross that was very wide and had to use ice axes, Jeff walked around
the snow adding 1.2 hours to his descent time. And I picked a short section
of snow and made way by sliding from one short bowl to another. After
meeting up with Norman, and resting on the trail for 10 minutes, I decided
to head down to take advantage of all the daylight. Norman would wait for
Jeff.
I raced down to the trail making it to the Eastern Enterance
station just as the sun set. I tried to hitch back to the car which
was 1/2 mile or so away at Tioga Lake. No luck.
After arriving at the parking lot, I took a brief rest, before
moving inside one of the nice bathrooms, to prepare for a possible
bivy. With room to lay out, I took a nice nap.
Jeff and Norman showed up about 1:30 minutes later. Off we went
to Lee Vining for some Chow. Jeff avoided the food, as he had stomach problems.
After dinner, we drove back towards the meadows and took the
first side road we could find, pulled over and slept.
On Sunday we went to the Awahnee for brunch(Very Yummy). Jeff
got his reward for not eating the night before. And we all enjoyed the
very tasty Lox.
After filling ourselves to the brim, we walked over to the base
of El Cap for aid practice. Norman and I had Jeff lead and clean an A3-
pitch that required nailing. The climb is down from the start of the
Dihedral wall and rated with a star. While Jeff was having fun, I went
on a booty hunt, scoring one wall hauler with biner, and two pins.
When I returned after the booty hunt, Jeff was up about 25 feet with
aways to go. Worried about the time, I soloed the right side(5.7) of
what ever we were on. Set up a rap and took pictures of Jeff
on my way down. Now Jeff could bail if it got dark. Jeff made it to
the top after pulling 1 piece and aiding on three different friends
that only had two cams holding him. Aid is great. He also nailed like
a mad man to finsh the weed cover crack.
We left the valley as it started to get dark, stopping at Smoke
in Jamestown for the Garlic Soup and way freaken hot spicy wings. Ouch.
Saturday and Sunday October 13th and 14th
Worked out moving boxes and dreamed about climbing. On Sunday, it was time
to hit the surf. Cause Surfs up big time in Santa Cruz. My old climbing buddy
John and I went to Santa Cruz and scored some head/chest high waves.
Monday and Tuesday October 9th and 10th
Cause I have a flexible work week( looking for a job
check out www.organic.com, two database positions, 1 CTO), I was able to work
the weekend and take off Monday and Tuesday.
Went to the valley to hook up with Theresa from Riverside who was
there to climb, and bail a friend out of jail for getting busted base
jumping.
As i have done for the past 4 years, a trip up Arrowhead Arete was
our plan for Monday and Tuesday was a route on lower cathedral spire.
We left the valley late at 9am arriving at the base of the route
at 10:20. The walk in this time was slow, ususally takes about 45 minutes,
I'm getting old. On the way in Theresa was bitten by a large something. At
the base of the route she tells me that she is feeling sick, but wants
to climb anyway. I say ok.
We left the ground at 10:40am and with me taking the first lead.
Theresa took the second pitch, to which I offered to lead cause the
#3 camalot I brought along had a blown trigger. But Theresa wanted it, and
took the lead. She warned me that her route finding was not that great,
and when I arrived at her belay, I agreed. She was about 15 feet to the left
of the route. I took the next lead which brings you to a point before you
travese from the arete to the great white flake(surfboard in the sky). Thesea
feeling sicker and not looking so good, took two short falls at the start
of the pitch. Not so good, So I took the lead again, and lead to the
top of the arete. Theresa feeling a little better took the final lead off
the arete to the gulley in the back. It's actually safer to lead the last
pitch then follow it.
(Beta) From the large tree on the left side of the arete, you walk
down, through manzanita heading towards a chimney, climb up and right
out off it. As you near the back of the gulley you can either rap off
a large tree with many slings on it, or down climb to a slot and kinda slide
down.
From here we walked down the gulley. And then down climbed 10
feet on the left side to the first chockstone rap. I've come to enjoy rapping
over chockstones, just have to watch out for the possible face plant. Theresa
took a long time to rap, enjoying the view under the large(huge) chockstone,
she would probably still be there if I did not nag her to keep going. We
walked to the next rap and lowered over the moss filled chockstone. This
rap is off old pins on the left side. The moss was mostly dry and not as
alive as in the spring. The third rap, can be a sucker one. You actually
think you have to rap from a manky onl pin/chockstone combination, but if
you rap/downclimb 10 feet you will find the real rap off and back to your
gear at the base of the climb. Then it's down the gulley, a rap off a tree
to help you down at the end of the gulley, look for slings on the right.
Then a rap down the 3rd/4th class and it's ski time back to the main
falls trail. We were back to the campground by 7pm. And Theresa was
feeling a lot better, Whew. No more trips up to Arrowhead Arete. Time to
pick another route to repeat.
Jaque was waiting at the campground for us, looking for someone
to climb with on Tuesday. And Theresa was not looking to anymore longwalkin's. We did the pasta diner thing with Dave the flying jailbird. And
took nice hot showers before crashing.
On Tuesday it was the old usual. Jamcrack, two 10's on Tr,
safe to surf. And then a new addition was Blackballed. And We all got
balled. Jaque was able to finish the bold lead, and get a no falls
on top rope. We walked back to the car at 6pm, and Theresa wanted more,
so we expressed over to Church Bowl and did Pole Position finishing in
the dark.
Off to Curry for Pizza, and Ice Cream, then back to the campground
for crashing. Doug Ward was waiting for us as we drove in. He had just
gotten off the first 4 pitches of EB of El cap, and was looking for partners
for Wednesdy. With the crowd of cars and everyone set for Wednesday. I drove
back to SF.
Driving by the office, the light was on at 4am. What a great place
to work.
Friday The 29th of September
Off to the valley to climb with Greg Opland and meet Lord Slime. Greg was tired and did not really want to climb, but I dragged him over to Church bowl with
a Mountain Dew on a stick (Old mule trick with carrot), we did Bishops Terrace and Bishops Layback. Then it was time for beer.
The Lower You get the better You feel(Sept 22nd-23rd).
Another great weekend of climbing. Mark Williams and I had connected
over the Internet. We both had intentions of soloing the east face or
east buttress of Mt. Whitney. After a few emails back and forth we decided
to do the route as a climbing team.
We left for the valley on Friday the 22nd, arriving at the trail
head about 1am. Slept for 2.5 hours until 3:30am. Up and off on the trail to
Mt. Whitney. Time passed by quickly, Lower Boy Scout lake, Upper Boy scout
lake, and then Ice Berg lake. Mark must run marathons, cause he would put
1/4" in between us in no time. Ice Berg lake was 1 1/2" thick at the shore. We filtered water here before continuing to the base of the route.
The walk to the base with rests took me about 6 hours. Mark probably could
have done it in 5 hours. I'm a snail at elevation.
The route is supposed to be 8 pitches of climbing with several hundred
feet of 3rd class at the top. Having now done the route, or some variation
of the route I can say the hardest part of the route was the last few
moves. Take all the rating's for granted. 5.8 could be 4th class, and the
converse is true. The way I ended the route was through and overhanging
off-width. There must have been an easier way, look to my left, walk
around to the right, nothing. There I was stuck with one hard move before
getting off. It would be hard to dyno with a pack on, no way to arm bar with
the pack either. Thunder clouds overhead, ah hell gotta do something. Yippe
there was an inside edge that I could layback. Ok High foot, crack for the
top of the block, yeah that's it. After two moves I was running for the
summit marker. Mark soon came up, shoe change, summit
photo and we
were off. Mark and I raced down the trial, but Friday nights dinner
caught up with me, and I sat on the trail vomiting my guts out. Strange I
felt a lot better after vomiting. Up on my feet again, and now I had a new
plan. "Lower you get the better you feel", and kept telling my self that asI moved down the trail. With all the bouncing my stomach was doing, I took
short breaks to relax it. And then on again. I met up with Mark again at
the endless switch backs above the first lake you see on the descent. We
moved at normal speed until 11,500 feet, at this point we picked up
speed. Two people who we had met on the top, were sitting on the side
of the trail, they did not have torches, Mark lent them his headlamp, and
we all off. Around three miles from the trail head, Mark came to the rescue
of two other climber, there headlamps were dying and he sold them
batteries. We would have given them the batteries for free but they
offered money.
We arrived back at the car at 10:40 or so. The walk in took 6 hours,
climb 5:30 hours(most of which was spent trying to get off the class 3) and
6 hours for the descent.
Would I recommend this climb to other people for a one day trip, Well
if you are in really good shape and don't have trouble breathing at 13,000
plus feet, then yes. Otherwise take an extra day to get used to the air,
by camping at Iceberg lake.
Sore Legs
Royal Arches, Crest Jewel, and El cap Fun with Brutus
Saturday the 16th of september, Brutus Binder(bbinder@emud.com) and I climbed royal arches and a long time quest for both of, Crest Jewel. Last weekend,
Inez D, worked out plans for Butus and I. Brutus was going to walk up North
Dome gulley to store some bivy gear for a future ascent of Astroman with Lord Slime. Everyone knows that the fastest, easiest way to the top of Washington's Column, is to take Royal Arches. Ok Column direct might be faster, anyone
interested? Inez hooked Brutus and I up to do Royal Arches and Crest Jewel.
Brutus and I carried a heavy pack up Royal arches with lots of water, and
bivy gear for his future astroman attempt. I had wanted to do RR in 1:30
but it took us about 2:30 minutes. After a leasurely walk up to Crest Jewel,
we were off. I took the first lead, which means I get all the 5.8's, while
Brutus gets the 5.8's, 5.9's and 5.10a pitch. I thought I was climbing slow
for this route, having trouble locating some bolts, but brutus thought we
were about even. The route took 2:45 minutes. Including one leader fall
by me, and one seconding fall also by me. I thought the crux, was making it
to the belay on pitch 8(last 5.8 pitch. As a note the first pitch only
has 2 bolts and the belay. The topo shows three. Crest Jewel was a lot of
fun, but my shoes hurt like heck at the end of it. We walked back around
to the base of the route and then down North Dome gully. Car to Car about
11 hours with a slow pace on the walk down, and scouting out astroman.
On labor day weekend I went to attempt the East Buttress of Mt. Whitney
and the Fishook Arete. Here's the story.
On Sunday August 19th to Thursday August 24th. My Big wall partner Pat and I
climbed the Nose of El Capitan. Here is the story of our ascent
use Scott Ghiz beta, add a small hook to the list of gear. And there is a loose block around pitch 9 to 10. It became loose this past May and is held up by
two cams.
Here is a story about my trip up the Leaning Tower in Yosemite Valley.
Mt lassen surrounding peaks.
Mt broakoff, and mt somthing to it's left.
X country ski into Pearlake in Sequia National park.
Hike to Charlote Dome.
Pinnacles climbing trip.
Many new routes were climbed. wet kiss, ordeal, stupendous man, lost Horizons, lower north face(1 fall then 3 falls ugh). Rock in my Pocket, Thrill
hammer, 10a at tourist trap.
South Central on Washingtons Column in yosemite. Great line
up the rock. Great Route, No pins needed. 10c, c2.
Gym climbing cause it's raining outside.
Many trips to Pinnacles and Yosemite.
Red Rocks Road Ripper.
Climbing in Black Velvet Canyon, Tsumani wall, magic bus, Black coridor.
Got snowed on. Yeah, good time climbing sport routes. Had long route plans,
but the weather did not work out.
Yosemite valley, Northeast buttress of Higher Cathedral rock. Excellent
climb, if you are into flares and some wide crack. 7 hours 23 minutes
of great climbing. Carrying a pack was a negative in the chimneys.
It seems that on the 5.8 face/aid pin pitch, you can end up at
a chimney offwidth to the left. We did the pins/10a variation.
I have wanted to do this climb for the last 4 years, but was
always scared that I was going to spend the nite on it. During
the walk in, my stomach was turning, thinking about all the people
I knew who had spent the nite on the route. Pat, and I climbed fast
with fast change overs at belays. The pack added time, as I had
to take it off and trail it in the squeeze chimney's. The 5.6
traverse is amazing. Better to lead then to follow. I can't figure out
if the first 5.8 flare pitch off the ledge was harder then the 2nd?
I had heard it was the 1st, which I lead. Then following the 2nd, I was
not sure. I also thought the 5.7 2nd pitch was very hard for 5.7. And
with the valley, one would say, old time 5.7. The 3rd pitch was one
of the best pitches I have climbed at the 5.9 rating.
Also learned how to scam towels, yippie.
Half dome in a day. Great way to do the northwest face route. about 17
hours or so.
Valley trip to climb steck/salathe. Missed the route and ended up
in the wring place, at the chournard/herbert route. Went cragging
at sentinal creek instead, also positively 4th street, and mapple jam.
Toulume meadows with Ellen, Climbed Eichorns pinnacle, and on Sunday
we climbed at the canopy world area.
Climbing in Greenland. Trip report to follow some day. Attemped big walls
in Tasermount fjord area.
Lover leap , south lake tahoe area CA,
with Ellen Sentovitch. Climbed Corrogation corner. Fun route. Climb is 4 pitchesof dike hiking. And some chimneys.
Took my roommate Christine, to the valley for her first multipitch
trip. Climbed Royal arches on Saturday, Sunday was spent climbing pine line, and little john left. Also Pick up ropes for friends doing the salathe. Then it
rained and rained, so we left.
Zion/red rocks. - Touchstone Wall(1 day), Moonlight buttress slept on
rocker blocker. And Dark shadows in red rocks.
Orange Juice ave, stone groove, highway star
Jam crack, black is brown, 11b circuit breaker. 12a to the left(-not yet).
Bouldering in camp 4.
many valley routes, after 7, nutcracker, royal arches, church bowl tree,
cold fusion, highway star, lower part of soutch face on the column.
many valley routes
many valley routes
House climbing trip to pinnacles, great to live with climbers. Went
with the roomates Christine *2, Bean, Evan, and others to pinnacles,
Here is what Evan wrote
Wet Kiss(5.9) Michael red points, and then followed cleanly by me and
Christine.
Big Pucker(10d) TR, clean by Michael and I minor hangs for Christine.
I felt strong on this and started to get confidence that I might really
be able to climb.
Ricknack's(11a) I led with one fall, Christine followed with a bit of
a struggle and then Michael TR'd it clean. I was pissed I flamed out
at the crux.
Cantaloupe Death(10c), I struggled mightily clipping the spinner first
bolt then red pointed it. Christine and Michael both got it clean
on tr.
Feed the Beast(11c), With some new French beta I got it clean to the
very last move, but then got distracted by a tangled top rope and fell.
Drat!!!! Christine dogged it, and then Michael got it clean. Motivated
I got back on for a 2nd go and also got it clean. Got to love that
French beta, next time we try to lead it.
Monolith Regular Route(5.8) Christine led (her 2nd) the first pitch,
then I led the 2nd. We rapped off (her 2nd) to set a TR on POD.
POD(11a) With some additional French beta (go right at the crux) I got it
clean on TR (first time in a long while), Michael got it clean as well,
Christine had a few hangs.
While lounging at the base of Monolith Michael and I had our first
experience of being recognized from Trip Reports on the net. "Hey,
I know you, your the guy who baked on the Salathe" Weird...
The Verdict(11c NOT!) I led it with only two hangs, one if which was
burnout and the other a brain fart. I was very pleased with effort.
I'm just a touch short on endurance and confidence to go from the death
clip through to the next bolt. Christine came off low down and ripped
open a big flapper on one of her fingers. Cool, so far no-one had bled.
Michael got it clean on TR!!
Wild, on a day of 2 - 10's and 4 11's Michael had no falls. He didn't
go onto the rope once. Dude, you got to start leading harder...
Did I mention I have a cold.
Yosemite Valley, Crazy weekend, with 3 choices, 1 go to
smith rocks, 2 go climb mt shasta, 3 go to the valley. Valley won. Had
to pick up ropes for Evan Bigall, who was attempting the Nose Route
on elcap. Jugged fixed lines and picked up ropes for Evan and Ian,
Then off to Moby dick with Norman, and Sarah. norman lead, I cleaned,
and sarah did it with style. Then to pine line(sarah lead), and Highway
star(tr). Sunday was offwidth day. I lead, attempted to lead, ok dogged,
Doggie Do 10a, norman and Sarah followed. Then We all tr'd the route. Norman
scored, I did it with 1 fall. Sarah chose a chimney around the corner instead.
Next off to Bachar Crack boulder problem. I was able to link the upper moves
but not the sequence to get to the key right hand. After this we went to
granite crack at sunnyside slabs, and some more bouldering.
March 16
Climbing with Pat in the Gym. Raining outside.
Yosemite Valley. Fixing lines on New Dawn. Yes I was one of
three only climbers on El Capitan. Norman, Spew, and I
fixed the first 3 pitches on New Dawn, for a future ascent
of a new route by Cameron, ken and Spew. Great time, even
the Eiger training was fun, avoiding the ice chunks.
planned Jtree trip canceled due to vision loss. Vision
back now, mountain biking and climbing at pinnacles
with Christine,Christine and Holly. Fun day doing classics.
Thrill hammer(.8), portant(.6) monolith direct(.7), me and my
monkey(9+), Rat race(5.7 really).
June lake and lee vining, best Ice in 20 years.
Lost vision in my right eye. Wear good eye protection
when climbing in the desert or the ice climbing. Vision is
back now.
Ice climbing at Silver lake. Hourglass.
January 18th and 25th
Gym Climbing
January 4th,11th
Pinnacles
December 21st
Gym Climbing and working
Yosemite Valley. Climbed at five and dime. With evan bigall.
Routes: keystone corner, five and dime, copper penny, bejou, and a new
route to the left of bejou, probably 10d/11a. Cafe for food, mountain
bar for reading, which turned into Cribbage with two people from Minnisota.
Sunday, long breakfast while talking to Whey. Off to parkline slabs. Got
small-balled off stonecrush 5.8++R(etreat). Plan to go back with bigger guns
and less brains. Then Evan led a 5.6, and we tr'd a 5.10 and 5.11.
Pinnacles, wet kiss, big pucker, cantalope death, feed the beast.
Love handles, relayer, castles made of sand, rat race in the dark.
Went to Toulomne Meadows to climb Cathedral peak. Climbed to the bottom
of the 3rd pitch before getting rained off.
4 peaks in 4 days. Plan was to climb Matterhorn Peak, Mt Humphreys,
Bear Creek Spire and Mt. Conness. The first day we got up early, but
not early enough, Walking to slowly put us behind another party. At the
base of the route at 2:30pm after a long slog. The other party was just
getting on the route and moving very slowly. I moved
with high speed returning to the car early to grab a shower before my
two partners showed up. Off to dinner and the buttermilks for sleeping.
Everything was closed in Bishop, well, except the sizzler. Bad food.
Up early the next day and walk into Mt Humphreys. We got up high to 12,500
and the snow covered gully was to steep to go for with ski poles. Turned
around and slid back down for the walk out.
Washington's Column in a day.
Get up early, pat takes he lead on the free pitches, 1,2,3. I lead
the aid pitches, 4,5,6. 6 takes a little longer as I am confused by
the topo to actual route. Pitch is actually 2 seperate cracks
with free climbing on the 2nd half and a split in the crack as
one peters out. pat takes the lead on the next 3. And I run the climb to
the top putting in lots of gear ;-) . Total time around 13 hours.
Valley Closed due to flooding. No climbing.
Went with Jeff, Norman and met Doug and Karni in the valley for some fun climbing. Started with a easy route to "point beyond on the apron. Then up towards
lucifers ledge to be turned back by high winds. Need to carry a wind breaker
on the apron when going high. Next tried to lead "Son of Sam". Did so with 1
hang. Then off to church bowl for one more route and some sun. Jeff worked
the lie back at church bowl, while I followed dough of the chimney to it's
left. Sunday was spent climbing at pat and jack area in the morning. Tried
to lead Sheries crack, but had to take 3 hangs. Got the route on TR. Then
off to Peruvian Flake for a run up a 10a.
Climbing with Inez at pinnacles for the day and putting in 2 bolts to finish
a route on the west side. Mountain biking on Sunday.
Went to Zion with Pat. Climbed Space shot. Great climb. Bring a hook
for the last move off the bolt ladder on the last pitch. Spent the
next day in snow canyon. Great place for a fun day of piton clipping.
Put up a New Route at Pinnacles. 5.9+ on the west side.
7 bolts. It is on the left of tilting terrace. Start on
terrace. Route is called "Rebecca Sailing."
Cycling, and bouldering.
Cycling, and bouldering.
Work and Gym Climbing
Climbing at pinnacles, checking out new routes, in the rain.
Drilling
Climbing at Pinnacles. machete Direct.
Planned to climb outside but had to resort to the gym. Rain got in the way.
I have gone to Quito to climb volcanos.
Trip report when I get back. No updates to the climbing lists will
take place until I return.
I plan to climb Cotopaxi(ariel view)
and Chimborazo.
We meet up with Brutus of Wade, and Lord Slime as they prepared to walk
in for a bivy at the base of Astroman. I played tour guide getting them
to the carin marked trail. Then is was off to the mountain bar and showers.
Eric Coomer shower up and joined us for some beers.
Starting up Royal Arches at 9:10am on Saturday, Eric and I moved quickly
ariving at the top at 10:50am. Inez and Greg followed behind. Eric and I
had plans for doing South Crack on North dome, but we did not feel like
walking down North Dome in the Dark, So we headed down. Inez and Greg were
planning to wait on top for Brutus and Lord Slime to finish Astroman before
walking down.
Eric and I hung out at the base of Astroman cheering on the boys as they went through the harding slot. Around 2pm we took off and climbed peruvian flake.
The rest of the evening was spent wondering when the gang would show up.
Sunday morning came, and the gang showed up at 10am, after spending the
night on top of the column. We had beer, chips, champagne and burritos
for breakfast.
On Sunday we took it easy climbing Sacherer Cracker(pitch 1), and La Esceula (pitch 1). We had planned on all three pitches of the route but the heat
was too much with the route in direct sun. Brutus did a fine job leading
both of these routes, as I had to hang to clean pro on La Esceula. The
Power belay was also employed for me on the route. If the valley
is busy and you are looking for some fine climbing, check out the base of
el cap.
Moonlight Climbing on Cathedral Peak
On Saturday September 9th I joined 10 other Rock Rendevous members for a Moon
light climb of Cathedral Peak in Toulomne Meadows. My Partner for the trip was
Jen Handley. We started climbing around
7pm and most people were back at camp before Midnight. Beautiful climb to do by moonlight. We camped above Budd lake. On Sunday we had
Champagne brunch. Muffins, Pancakes, Omlettes, and 5 bottles of Champagne
were served. Inez Drixelius, Got Any Food?.
